In the Vegetable Garden – August, 2018

by Patty Leander
photos by Bruce Leander

cantaloupe roots infected with nematodes.

At this time of year I love my vegetable garden first thing in the morning when plants are fresh and perky, yet I am ready to yank it all out when I see it in the late afternoon — wilted and droopy, begging for mercy. Like a good little gardener, I plant my vegetables in full sun, which takes a toll on summer plantings when our intense, hundred-degree days roll around.

Plants with large leaves, like cucumbers, squash and okra are especially susceptible to wilting in late afternoon, but they generally look refreshed by morning. If you notice that these plants stay wilted even after a good, overnight soaking, it is likely they are afflicted with nematodes. Nematodes are microscopic, parasitic worms that enter plant roots, causing small galls to form. As these galls enlarge in size and number they inhibit water uptake, and the wilted leaves cannot revive no matter how much water or shade you provide. Though nematodes are not visible to the naked eye, their damage is noticeable. Aside from the incessant wilting, leaves will turn yellow, fruit will be small and misshapen, plants will gradually decline, and swollen knots will be observed along the roots.

Tell-tale signs of nematodes: stunted growth, poor fruit quality, wilted leaves and galls on roots.

I recently noticed that my small planting of cantaloupes was not thriving as expected. Initially the plants had several vines and lots of flowers, but only two melons had started to enlarge; several others had formed but withered, the plants were stunted, and leaves were small and droopy. These are all tell-tale signs of nematodes. When I pulled up one of the plants the roots were severely infested. In my early days as a vegetable gardener I would have panicked, but now I know that nematodes will occasionally crop up in my garden and I know that any of following earth-kind, organic methods will help reduce their numbers and subsequent damage:

1. Immediately remove and discard affected plants and roots (the sooner the better, as plant roots provide food and shelter for increasing nematode populations) being careful not to fling or spread the soil that may contain juvenile nematodes. Always clean and disinfect tools after working with nematode infested soil. Do not compost infected roots.
2. Leave the planting area fallow and dry for several weeks during the hot summer, turning every 7-10 days to expose soil to the drying effects of the sun.
3. Practice plant rotation and avoid planting susceptible vegetables, especially tomatoes, beans, cucumbers, squash, cantaloupe and okra, in areas previously infested with nematodes for the next three years. Try growing these susceptible crops in straw bales or large containers.
4. Plant non-host crops such as onions, garlic and corn as well as nematode resistant hybrids. Nematodes are not very active in cold temperatures, so brassicas and other cool season crops can be grown without issue over the winter. Exceptions are beets and carrots which can suffer damage if nematodes are present.
5. Plant a trap crop of Elbon cereal rye in fall to prevent larvae from maturing and reproducing. Cut down in the spring and allow the roots to decompose in the soil. Exudates from the decomposing roots are toxic to nematodes, and the resulting organic matter is beneficial to the soil.
6. Plant a cover crop of French marigolds (Tagetes patula) in late summer and let them grow until frost. In order to reduce the nematode population marigolds must be densely planted over the entire area and allowed to grow and bloom for several weeks. After 2 months, cut the tops off and turn the plants under. Wait 1-2 weeks, then proceed with cool season plantings. Effective varieties include “Nema-gone” from Burpee, and “Golden Guardian” from Park Seed.
7. Solarize the soil under clear plastic for 4-6 weeks during the hottest summer months.

Here is the vegetable gardener’s checklist for August:

Mulch the soil and provide shade to new plantings during establishment.

• Mulch garden beds generously to protect the soil, inhibit weed germination and conserve moisture. Provide shade for new plantings during the first weeks in the garden.
• Transplants of peppers, eggplants and tomatoes can be set out early this month; look for varieties with short maturity dates that will produce before the first frost.
• Plant quick-growing varieties of summer squash, green beans and cucumbers later this month. All can be seeded directly in the garden.
• If you are itching to grow something right now, try Southern peas, long beans or Malabar spinach. When I look out on my garden in the hot afternoon these three vegetables are hardly ever wilted, have few pests and are reliable producers.
• Plan carefully so you still have room for cool season vegetables; any warm season veggies planted now will be taking up valuable space in the garden right up until frost.
• Start seeding broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower indoors this month if you want to grow your own transplants. Use clean pots and fresh potting soil; transplants will be ready for the garden in about 6 weeks.
• Fall is the best time for planting strawberries, which should be grown as annuals in central Texas. Most growers in Poteet set out bare root plants over Labor Day but home gardeners can plant anytime in September or early October. The plants establish strong roots over the winter and generally start blooming in February, producing berries through April or May. If you can’t find strawberry transplants in local nurseries bare root plants can be ordered and shipped from Bob Wells Nursery in Lindale (http://bobwellsnursery.com/index.php/berries/strawberries.html). June-bearing or day-neutral varieties are recommended for Texas; these include ‘Albion,’ ‘Chandler,’ ‘Camarosa,’ ‘Cardinal,’ ‘Festival,’ ‘Seascape,’ ‘Sequoia’ and ‘Sweet Charlie.’

   

  

  Start brassica transplants indoors under grow lights or in a shady spot outside; thin to one plant per cell using sharp scissors.

  

  Growing in straw bales is a feasible alternative to poor soils.

  

  After a straw bale has served its purpose as a planter the broken down straw makes a great mulch.